Morocco A to Z: Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains & the Sahara
Morocco is a feast for the senses and a brilliant first step into North Africa. In one trip you can haggle through the labyrinthine souks of Marrakech, sip mint tea on a rooftop at dusk, hike Berber villages in the High Atlas and sleep under a blanket of stars in the Sahara. It is exotic yet welcoming, ancient yet easy to travel, and astonishing value. This guide moves from the imperial cities to the mountains and the desert, with the etiquette, food and timing to travel it smoothly and respectfully.
Why Morocco, and how this guide works
Morocco packs deserts, mountains, ancient medinas and an Atlantic coast into a country you can loop in two weeks. Most trips start in Marrakech, the gateway, then fan out to the High Atlas mountains and the Sahara, with the imperial city of Fes and the breezy coast at Essaouira as rewarding add-ons.
It is more conservative than Europe and travel takes patience, but a little courtesy and a sense of humour open every door. We will start in Marrakech, learn to navigate the medina, then head for the mountains, the dunes and the coast.
Marrakech: the red city
Marrakech is gloriously overwhelming. The heart is Jemaa el-Fnaa, a square that transforms each evening into a theatre of food stalls, musicians and storytellers. Around it spreads the medina: the serene Bahia Palace, the painterly Jardin Majorelle, and the Ben Youssef Madrasa with its breathtaking tilework.
Stay in a riad, a traditional courtyard house, for an oasis of calm behind the chaos. Climb to a rooftop café at sunset as the call to prayer rolls across the rooftops, and the city makes perfect sense.
Navigating the souks (and the etiquette)
The souks are a maze, and getting briefly lost is part of the fun, but a few rules help. Haggling is expected and friendly: start around a third of the asking price and settle with a smile, or walk away politely if it is not for you. Agree a price before any service, including the "helpful" stranger who offers to show you the way.
Dress modestly, shoulders and knees covered, especially away from tourist areas. Ask before photographing people, and remember Friday is the holy day when some shops close. A few words of Arabic or French, and a little patience, go a long way.
Into the High Atlas
Two hours from Marrakech, the High Atlas mountains are a different Morocco of Berber villages, walnut groves and snow-capped peaks. Day-trip to the Ourika Valley or the waterfalls of Setti Fatma, or stay a night in Imlil, the base for trekking Mount Toubkal, North Africa's highest peak.
Even a short guided walk between villages, with mint tea in a family home along the way, is a highlight. The mountain air is a cool relief from the city heat, and the hospitality is humbling.
A night in the Sahara
The desert is the trip's emotional peak. Most travellers reach the dunes of Erg Chebbi near Merzouga via a multi-day route over the Atlas, stopping at the kasbah of Aït Benhaddou and the Dadès and Todra gorges along the way.
At the dunes you ride a camel or 4x4 to a desert camp, watch the sun melt into an ocean of sand, eat tagine under the stars and wake for a silent sunrise. It is touristy and unforgettable in equal measure, two nights on the road each way is well spent.
Fes and the coast
With more time, add Fes, the oldest of the imperial cities, whose medieval medina is the most atmospheric (and most labyrinthine) in the country, home to the famous, pungent tanneries. It is less polished than Marrakech and all the more authentic for it.
For a change of pace, the Atlantic town of Essaouira is breezy, walkable and laid-back, a fortified port of blue boats, fresh seafood and windswept beaches, three hours from Marrakech and the perfect place to decompress.
Where to stay & a sample two weeks
Sleeping in a riad is half the experience, a calm, tiled courtyard hidden behind a plain medina door, often with a plunge pool and rooftop breakfast. They range from budget to sumptuous. In the desert, camps run from basic to genuinely luxurious; pick one with proper facilities.
A classic two weeks: three days in Marrakech; a three-day desert loop to Merzouga via Aït Benhaddou and the gorges; a couple of days in the Atlas; then the train north to Fes for two days, or west to Essaouira for the coast. Distances are long, so do not over-pack the itinerary.
Things to do
Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk
Marrakech's great square comes alive with food, music and storytellers.
Sleep in the Sahara
Camel trek into the dunes and a night at a desert camp under the stars.
Trek the High Atlas
Walk between Berber villages with mint tea along the way.
Get lost in the souks
Haggle for lanterns, leather and spices in the medina maze.
Insider tips
- Haggle with a smile, start low, stay friendly, and be ready to walk away; agree every price up front.
- Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), especially in the medinas and rural areas.
- Carry cash in dirham, much of the medina and rural Morocco is cash-only, and tipping is customary.
- Ask permission before photographing people, and expect a small tip to be requested.
- Drink only bottled or filtered water, and ease into the rich food to avoid an upset stomach.
Budget guide
Best time to visit
Food & drink to try
Tagine
Slow-cooked stew of meat or vegetables with preserved lemon, olives and spice.
Couscous
Traditionally the Friday dish: steamed semolina piled with vegetables and meat.
Mint tea
Sweet green tea poured from a height, the ritual heart of Moroccan hospitality.
Pastilla
A sweet-savoury pie of poultry, almonds and cinnamon in flaky pastry.
Getting around
Getting there
Marrakech (RAK) and Casablanca (CMN) are the main gateways; Fes and Essaouira have smaller airports.
Trains
The ONCF network, including the Al Boraq high-speed line, links Casablanca, Rabat, Fes and Marrakech.
Private driver
For the desert loop and the Atlas, hiring a driver-guide is the easiest and best-value option.
In the medinas
Cars cannot enter; explore on foot, and use petit taxis for longer hops in the new towns.
Gallery
Travel checklist
Tick these off before you go. Your progress is kept while you stay on this page.
